Tips and Tricks   I begin by assembling the helicopter without any form of loctite. This helps me get familiar with the helicopter and how it will go together. I start with the head of the helicopter and completely disassemble it. This may sound kind of redundant but it helps me keep track of what I have completed and what I still need to do. I make sure that every bolt is properly secured with loctite before I move on. Once that step is complete I set the lengths of the control linkages to the stock length to get a base line. I set the servo arms to 90 degrees on the hub of the servo. Sometimes you can’t achieve exactly 90 degrees without the use of sub-trim. You need to limit the amount of sub-trim as much as possible. You can remedy this problem by turning the servo arm 180 degrees from its original position. More than likely this will bring you very close to the 90 degrees you need for a proper setup. If you still can not achieve the 90 degree setup then you need to dial in a little sub-trim. My next step is to loosen up the link ends. You can achieve this by buying a ball link resizing tool, or you can use a drill and an extra ball to put the link through many cycles of use. You will notice a considerable change in flight characteristics once you choose to spend extra time on this important step. Take care not to remove too much material from the link end. This may cause a crash due to ball link failure. Once that step is complete then I ensure that all of my servos are moving in the proper direction. On all eCCPM helicopters I set the throttle stick (collective stick) to the center and set the lengths of the links to the swash plate.  I adjust the lengths of connecting rods and set the swash plate to around half of its full throw.  Using a pitch gage I set both rotor blades to 0 degrees of pitch at half stick. If you are new to R/C helicopters you want to hover at 50% stick. I would suggest setting your pitch to be 5 degrees of pitch at 50% stick.   I run the throttle stick (in this case Pitch) up and down to ensure that I am getting +10 degrees and then -10 degrees. If you are new to R/C helicopters I would suggest setting the bottom side of you pitch to around -4 degrees. This makes sure you can get out of the air on a windy day. Once I have achieved the proper pitch setting in both directions, I check for any coupling that may occur during extreme swash plate positions. I choose to use a cyclic limiter ring to help alleviate some of these problems. Remember a limiter ring only keeps your cyclic stick from being able to get into the extreme corners of your transmitter; you still need to ensure that during your setup you test the cyclic stick to the far right, left, forward, and aft positions for any coupling. If you do experience any coupling between cyclic and collective, then you need to adjust you travel adjustments to alleviate the coupling problem. Once the head of my helicopter is completely tested and works properly I move to the tail rotor. Setup on the tail rotor can be different due to different gyro servo selections. I always set my gyro to rate mode when I am setting up a tail rotor. Once that is complete I set my tail rotor slider to the center position and then adjust the length of the linkage rod accordingly. Don’t forget to set your gyro back to heading hold mode before you go to test fly. If you skip this set you may crash your helicopter.   Everybody has their own take on how to setup helicopters, but this has worked for me. If you are new to helicopters I hope this information will help you set up your helicopter. As you progress in the hobby you will learn to setup your helicopter to best fit your flying style. But until then I hope this helps you out. T-rex 450 SE   This has proven to be a great flying little helicopter. I have flown the T-rex for the past two years, and have enjoyed every minute of it. This helicopter has taught me about the importance of a proper setup and gearing on electric helicopters. This helicopter has also taught me how to select motors and batteries to get the most out of the helicopter. I hope the following information will help the new helicopter pilot select their components for their T-rex 450.   I prefer to run high voltage on my T-rex. This allows me to keep all of the components cool during the flight. Running a high voltage setup keeps your amperage down. When your amperage is down the helicopter tends to run cooler. The components become inefficient when you run them hot. Think of you motor and speed control as resistors. Ohm’s law is E=IR, R stands for resistance. If the heat builds up in a resistor the resistance grows exponentially larger. What this all boils down to is if you keep your power system cool you will get a better battery life and you will have more consistent power throughout your flight. My battery of choice is the 2100MAH 4s battery from Hecell. This battery has proven to do very well for my T-rex. If you are interested in a very powerful T-rex who will not bog this battery is for you. To go with your good battery you need a good motor. My motor of choice is the NEU 1107-2y. This is a very efficient motor. It is also very powerful and runs very cool. I run a 9 tooth pinion gear on my T-rex with a 100% throttle curve. This gives me a head speed of about 3000 RPM. When you first get the motor you will notice that it is a bit bigger than you are probably use to. But don’t be afraid it makes up for its weight and size by shear power and efficiency. I can get around 7 minutes of 3D flight out of my T-rex with plenty left to spare. Remember that without a good motor your battery is not worth anything. The NEU 1107-2y is the motor for a 4s setup. To go with your good motor and battery combo you need a good speed control and BEC. My setups usually have BECs in line for receiver power. I like the extra insurance that they give you. My helicopter runs very reliably with the 6V Park BEC from Dimension Engineering. The esc on my T-rex is a 33 amp Quark. I like the fact that the Quark esc has provided me reliable service for the last year I have had it. The Quark also has a neat switch feature on it. This allows you, if you use an external BEC, to turn on your motor on when you are ready to fly. This makes it easier during setup because you do not have to unplug the motor, you just have to turn the motor off. I also like the castle creations ESC. They are also great controllers. I have had a lot of luck with them on all applications. If I had it to do all over again I would have used a Castle creations 35 amp speed control. As with everything you need to have a good cyclic control setup. I use HS 65 servos. These servos work very well and give a very positive feel on cyclic and collective. You also want to make sure that you have good control of your tail rotor during all of your maneuvers. I use the popular GY401 and the 9650 digital tail rotor servo. This setup has also provided me with excellent service thought out the past year. The servo gyro setup is great for the T-rex and is easy to mount on your helicopter. I hope to have helped you out. Remember these are my opinions on how to setup your helicopter and also my opinions on the quality of products. I really have spent a lot of time on this helicopter, and have really enjoyed the tinkering aspect of taking this helicopter from one that was unreliable to one of the most reliable helicopters I own. I am always open to accept any question you may have about helicopters or aircraft setups. I specialize in power systems but, I also like to help you setup your helicopter or airplane so that you can be flying in less time and with great results. QJ-8 helicopter                 The QJ8 helicopter is another great flying and looking helicopter. It is produced by Quick of Japan, and is distributed by Helicopter hobbies. The helicopter is of real good quality. Everything fits together very well and there were no surprises while assembling this helicopter. It really is a quality product.             I choose to run High voltage on this helicopter as well. I feel that I am able to maximize the power out of this helicopter. The 6s 3000MAH 15C Hecell battery has proven to do very well on this helicopter. I have found that while this may be a heavy setup, the QJ8 performs on this battery pack. I am able to get around 33Amps out of this battery. This is well within its range. I intend on testing the new 25C 3000MAh batteries when they get here.             The motor I have chosen to run on this helicopter is the Medusa 036-050-1000-5 motor. It has proven to be a good motor combo with the powerful Hecell battery pack. I run a 14 tooth pinion gear on this motor giving me a head speed of around 2780 RPM. This seems to be a great head speed for this helicopter. If you want power out of your QJ8, put this combo on your helicopter and you will be happy.             This helicopter is running a castle creations 80 amp speed control. This has proven to be plenty adequate for this setup. You could probably go with around a 50-60 amp speed control. I like all of the components in the power system to run cool. The oversized speed control does not even get warm. It is also very efficient. I can get around 6:30 during a full 3D flight. I am very happy with the power system on this helicopter, and would suggest it to anyone who has or is going to get a QJ8.             I am also running a Sport BEC by Dimension Engineering. These folks have some great products. They work well and also look very good. I my opinion they are the best BEC out there. One of the reasons behind that is they do not require you to eat up an extra channel for power. You can plug the speed control right into the BEC and plug the BEC right into the receiver. I could not say enough good about their products, I really like them. I have chosen to use my BEC as a voltage regulator and use a Hecell 700 MAH battery for the control system. I like the extra insurance that is given to me by isolating the control system. I feel that this helicopter is large enough need that extra insurance.             The QJ8 is a little bigger helicopter than the T-rex. I have chosen to use HS-85 metal gear servos on my QJ8. They have proven to give me good control of the helicopter. They give me that locked in feel that I really like to have. I have also chosen to go with the G500T gyro with the 8700G tail rotor servo from JR. This gyro holds like no other. It has done a good job for me so far. I really like the setup on this helicopter. I would recommend that if you want a great flying QJ8 with lots of power then use this information as a guide.              I hope that this information has provided the old, new, or prospective QJ8 helicopter owner in their quest for a powerful QJ8. I believe that this is a beautiful helicopter. This setup has proven to be very good for this particular helicopter. Like always if you have any questions about this helicopter, feel free to drop me a line. I will be glad to answer any of your questions.